This ensemble is a good example of the work of the Spanish couturier Balenciaga (active in Paris 1937-68) in the 1960s when he actively fostered his interest in innovative textiles, simplifying the cut and construction of his clothes to make the most of the textiles. From his early days in Paris, Balenciaga’s fascination with surface texture and pattern led him to patronise the important Parisian embroidery firm of Lesage. He was amongst the first couturiers to showcase some of Lesage’s plastic creations: in this case, the disks in graduated shades of pink are made of melanex and shimmer as the wearer moves. Pink was ever present in the designer’s oeuvre, in many variations from ‘baby’ pink to ‘shocking’ pink, but not within the same garment. Although the Baroness Rothschild, one of the couturier’s most faithful customers, chose trousers to go with the coat, the coat had been presented in Balenciaga’s show worn with a skirt that skimmed the knee.